Camino de Santiago | Day 22

San Martin del Camino – Astorga

16.35 | 331.99 miles

+1,118 | -1,127 feet

I think rock stars must sleep in better beds when they’re on tour for five weeks than my beds on the Camino. In comparison to most of the beds I’ve been sleeping on, last night’s was one of the best. Maybe that’s why I didn’t really feel my back until the second mile – for which I offered many prayers of gratitude. It’s hard to believe I’m starting my fourth week today.

It’s best to make hay before the sun shines when the temperature is supposed to reach 85. I was on the road by 7:00 AM. It was just me, the moon, and the traffic on the N120 waiting for the sun to rise.

I took a break after crossing the Puente de Obrigo. It was a perfect time to sit in a cafe as the sun came over the horizon on this 13th century bridge. At one time, the river must have been wider. The bridge was built to join the two towns on either side.

I took the scenic alternative today. It was definitely worth the extra mile for the views (and to get away from the N120). I met a woman from Holland, and we walked together for a while. We stopped at a very cute rest area.

It was run by the couple who lived just behind it. They offered an amazing selection of fruit and other food – all for donation. I enjoyed a nectarine as I sat down and took a break. They also had a little labyrinth: prayers of gratitude going in, prayers of seeking going out.

The walk into Astorga was beautiful. I visited the cathedral and the grocery store before arriving at my room. I also managed to stop and mail the key back to the hotel in Lyon.

If you approach town and think, “I wonder where I’m staying tonight?” It’s going to be by the big church. This is about 1.5 miles out.

My room is a studio apartment with a little kitchen, so I bought food to cook dinner. As I write, I’m sitting on the balcony with a gorgeous view of the cathedral and the Roman wall.


I spiritually disciplined myself and took all of my breaks today, never going more than five miles without sitting down. Surprisingly (said with sarcasm), I feel a lot better – even doing over 16 miles today.

Hello, mountains. We meet again tomorrow.

Buen Camino

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