Camino de Santiago | Day 17

Carrion de Los Condes – Moritanos

18.73 | 258.28 miles

+1,075 | -995 feet

Up without an alarm at 6:00. After a quick breakfast at the hotel, I was on my way by 6:45. I think I’ll be starting most days in the dark as the sun rises later each day, and I’m walking west.

I hadn’t even started on my way when I saw two gentleman I’ve been seeing daily since our dinner in Burgos. They are taking a taxi beyond where I’m staying tonight, so I will not see them again. Then I saw two more guys outside a café. So early in the morning, in a little town in rural Spain, and I see people I know!

Beginning in the dark, you can see the small halos of light of those in front of you. So dark and quiet, these become little bits of light testifying that someone else is there walking with you.

You can see the headlamp of the person behind me.

I don’t get tired of these sunrises. Today, with the clouds, so very beautiful.

Walking west, I am constantly turning around until the sun is up.

At one point, I was surrounded by the sunrise as the sun’s reflection made all the clouds pink.

They say today is one of the most boring stages of the Way, but the clouds said, “Not today!”

It was long initial segment of almost 11 miles to the first stop. I realized a 30-kilometer day is a little bit like pregnancy.

First trimester: Fresh and ready to go, but the body also needs to settle in a bit. Aches and stiffness need to work themselves out.

Second trimester: After break, you hit your stride and begin to feel pretty good.

Third trimester: The weight starts to be noticeable; your feet are sore and a little bit swollen. You’re ready for the end – and the joy of taking off your back and a hot shower.

It’s amazing how much the body strengthens even as you continue to push and fatigue it. This 18-mile day was hard, but not near as difficult or tiring as a week ago. I was certainly glad to be done today but wasn’t completely wore out.


Before I reached Moritanos, I came upon a labyrinth. What a wonderful opportunity to stop and reflect. It is such a gift to be here.

Buen Camino

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One Thought to “Camino de Santiago | Day 17”

  1. Trish Eckert

    Michelle, your posts have been such a rich addition to my days – may your pilgrimage continue to be a journey filled with wonder. You’ve certainly been sharing that wonder with us! Blessings, Trish

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